Question:
How hard is it to install new brake shoes and pads on a 92 camaro?
Steve B
2007-10-04 22:28:44 UTC
I was also told that with new shoes my e-brake should work.
Six answers:
2007-10-05 07:01:22 UTC
I own a shop, and think this; Remove the wheels, and remove the front calipers and brake pads. Remove the rotors, and have them turned or replace them. Push the calipers back with a C-clamp but place a block in the other side so you don't push the caliper all the way out. Push them back slowly, and realize you will probably push fluid out of the master cylinder, so its a good idea to remove some before hand. Purchase a can of brake cleaner, and some anti squeal for the backs of the pads. Don't handle the surface of the pads or shoes any more than you have to, and wash them down when you are done so they will work right, and also wash the rotor good on both sides. When you are done, push the brake pedal lightly several times to work the pistons of the calipers back out or you won't have any brakes when you hit them. Don't push the brake pedal all the way down, but just enough to work them back out, or you will set off a brake light if it goes all the way to the floor. For the back brakes; Remove one side "only" and leave the other to go by when you replace the shoes. Pay attention to the front shoe lining, as one shoe is longer than the other, and you musn't get this mixed up. When you are done, turn the adjuster wheel, and if it doesn't click as you turn it, then its not in there right. Hint; put the lower spring into position, move the upper parts close together to open the lower up enough to get the adjuster into place, and then spring them back apart. Install them this way, and pay attention to the spring thats near the adjusting wheel, it can't be hitting the adjuster, or its wrong. This is why you go by the other side. If in doubt, go to the library and look at it in a "Chilton's Repair Manual" and you will see what you need to know. Wash the back brake shoes down good along with the drum. Center the shoes up as best you can, and replace the drum. Working through the slot use a brake spoon or screwdriver to turn the adjuster wheel. Adjust it up until you feel drag on the drum. Now do the other side just like you did this side. When done, push the brake pedal down to center the shoes on both sides, and turn them again making sure you have a little drag on them, if not; adjust them until you do. Install the dust boot back into the holes for the adjusters, if you had to knock them out, then get some boots from the parts store to go in them. Now, your emergency brake should work just fine. If not, then the cable may need to be tightened up a little under the car. Hold long part with vise grips, and turn the nut/nuts to acheive the desired action of the emergency brake pedal inside the car. Check your fluid level, and top it off with at least DOT-3 fluid, but don't fill all the way up, just up to within about a 1/4 of an inch from the top. Check the brakes to make sure they are working as they should before you try to drive the vehicle.

Glad to help out, Good luck!!!
Hillbilly
2007-10-05 05:37:14 UTC
the pads are the easiest...remove the tire then the two bolts holding the caliper on. compress the piston in the caliper all the way back...replace pads and reinstall...the shoes are a little more inticate...the drum may have a lip on the edge and not come off too easily... in that event take the plug out of the dust cover on the back and use a screw driver to turn the star wheel inside to loosen the pads from the drum. once the drum is off there are several springs and clips that you have to remove to get the shoes out...carefully take apart and reassemble...take a picture before hand to make sure everything gets put back together correctly. put the drum back on and use the star adjuster to move the shoes out until they just lightly rub the drum.. the parking/e-brake should work given that the cable is in good condition
2007-10-05 05:33:36 UTC
It's not. It's easier with some special tools, but except for a special socket for the front pads you really don't need them. Are you sure you need new shoes and you just don't need to adjust the rear brakes. If there out of adjustment the Emergency brake is not going to work properly.
Seamus
2007-10-05 05:46:57 UTC
Should not be too bad. I recommend buying a Chiltons Manual at the local auto parts store. It sould provide step-by step instructions.



Also, here's a tip when doing brakes, especially if you have not done them before.



Jack up and support the car such that you can remove both wheels from the same axle. Do the brakes one wheel at a time, leaving one wheel's brakes intact while disassebling the other. That way, you could always look at the intact brakes on the other wheel as a reference when re-assembling the brakes on the wheel that you dis-assembled.



Hope this helps.
ecarcompany
2007-10-05 05:38:30 UTC
It may be just that the rear brakes are out of adjustment. With the car engine running and in shifter in park (or neutral if manual trans), and the e brake off, push down on the brke pedal and take notice of how far you have to push the brake pedal till it is firm. Then push down the e-brake and then push down the brake pedal and see it there is any difference in how far you have to push. If it is a shorter distance, then the rear brake shoes are out of adjustment.
2007-10-05 08:42:09 UTC
It is possible that your e-brake cable either need adjusting or your rear caliper has frozen up and needs either rebuilt or replaced


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