Valve adjustment firing order on a SBC 283?

Question

Ok so I have a 1966 283 Small block Chevy the valve's are tighter than others and loose them some ya know. So i done some research and found a few different ways to adjust them. Also i do not know the size of the cam. I do know that i have hydraulic cam and lifters. So what would be the width between the rocker and valve stem? Should i measure them when cold then measure when at at operating temperature? then kinda go in between the two thousandths I know the intake is 0.002 thousandths smaller in width then the exhaust which makes the exhaust a larger width. because the exhaust gets hotter which make it expand. here is what i have found to be a pretty reasonable firing order to do valve lash adjustments.

with #1 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Intake Valve
with #8 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Intake Valve
with #4 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Intake Valve
with #3 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Intake Valve
with #6 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Intake Valve
with #5 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Intake Valve
with #7 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Intake Valve
with #2 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Intake Valve

THEN:

with #1 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Exhaust Valve
with #8 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Exhaust Valve
with #4 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Exhaust Valve
with #3 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Exhaust Valve
with #6 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Exhaust Valve
with #5 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Exhaust Valve
with #7 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Exhaust Valve
with #2 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Exhaust Valve

Would this be correct?? and what is a reasonable thousands for the intake and exhaust valves for a hydraulic cam? i have solid rockers. they are not rollers.

Answer 1

Your plan as far as engine position is OK, however, hydraulic lifters are designed to run at 'zero lash', that is to say, no clearance between the rocker and valve stem. There is a spring loaded plunger in the lifter body that gets pumped up with oil pressure to maintain zero lash. The proper adjustment is to have the plunger just slightly down in the lifter body. Loosen the rocker arm until the pushrod turns freely, then tighten it slowly until all the clearance is just taken up, you should still be able to spin it, then tighten 1/2 to 3/4 turns more. You don't want the plunger bottomed out, just slightly depressed. It can be tricky to feel the right point if you have never done it before.

Answer 2

Any adjustment should be done with the engine at operating temp. The adjustment order you have listed is ok with the engine off. Different ways of doing it not running. Check out some YouTube videos and Google sites to pick one you're comfortable with. Since this is hydraulic, there is no clearance between the rocker and valve stem. There needs to be a preload on the lifters. I do mine with the engine running so no need to worry about order done or cam lobe duration or height. I cut the middle out of an old valve cover to keep oil from spraying out. There are also clips you can buy that do the same thing. http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-1015-Rocker-Deflector/dp/B000BW8VK8

Loosen the rocker until it starts to make noise. Slowly tighten until it stops making noise and then 1/8 more turn. Your choice as to method. Either running or not running will work.

Answer 3

LN is dead on. You can't adjust them running correctly, you never know if your preload is right. You can fine tune them while running, but it's far too easy to go too much or too little if your initial preload isn't right.