thinking about adding an twin turbo to an chevy sbc? any id on horse power?

Question

what would be an good set up ( far as heads, pistons,cranshaft) ? im thinking about going with an 327 cause it turns up so good, and im going to get the set up of ebay? theres on that is local, but what kind of stuff do i need to be concerned with far as puting it in, and the maintance on one. im plan on putting it in a s-10 and an ball park figure on horse power?

Answer 1

Well I would use a set of platinum 215 heads from Iron Eagle, and a comp cam Nitrous, supercharger,turbo cam. With a flat tappet since they rev up much easier, and with fewer parts the a roller cam. Plus the loss of 30 horse is easier to over come a boosted motor. A street roller has a hard time getting above 6000rpm, where as a flat tappet solid can easily run 7000rpm with springs that would not kill the cam or other valve train parts.



Second I would use 1 large turbo since packaging would be tons easier, and much easier to regulate as time goes on.



Also consider a STSturbo.com universal kit since under the hood space is a little tight on a S-10.



327 with 8.0-1 compression, dart 215 heads, turbo flat tappet cam, and profession carb with boost referencing, and the turbo set at 12psi. One could expect it to get about 500 real horsepower IN THE CAR or about 600 in some perfected dyno situation.



get good tires.

Answer 2

Sbc Turbo Headers

Answer 3

take the inventory air container out of your automobile, %. up a chilly air intake alternative filter out from autozone and in basic terms rig it up on the tip of the inventory intake tube. i did that on a 2001 intrepid 3.2 V-6, i dropped approximately 0.5 a 2nd on 0-60 and so lots extra low-end torque. next factor is to open up your exhaust. in spite of the incontrovertible fact which you desire to try this, twin exhaust would be suitable for something extra effective than a V-6, in case you're low on money in basic terms replace the muffler for a tumbler %. or a racing muffler, dont get something extra effective than a 2 baffle muffler. exchange to ngk spark plugs and in case you have the money and your automobile helps it get an MSD ignition. next factor would in all probability be headers, then port and varnish the heads, of direction which could get extremely costly. in basic terms save on with the small stuff. the main substantial factor to examine once you are trying to decide how briskly a automobile will circulate is the skill to weight ratio. take the load of the automobile divided with the aid of the horsepower, you will desire to have the skill to discover all of it on line. as quickly as you already know that, then the main inexpensive thank you to make any automobile swifter is to take out pointless products. make valuable your tires are precise inflated, even a pair pounds over wont harm them, yet dont circulate too some distance. i had 35 psi in mine and that they have been meant to be 32 i think of, so not a huge distinction. good success!! dont use nitrous except its an automated! in case you permit out a shift, you will blow your engine to products! octane booster isnt nicely surely worth the cost. or maybe if that guy is speaking approximately useing a propane tank, hahaha, not a good theory! its suitable to construct the engine to handle skill earlier you circulate pumping extra gasoline or gasses into it.

Answer 4

There's alot to know before jumping into the turbo SB's. I have been building race engines for 12 years, and just did my 1st twin turbo car/engine last year.



Just some gen info to get you started out..

Keep compression between 8.0:1 and 9.0:1 max.



Forged pistons are a must.



Stock rods will work but you need better rod bolts (arp rod bolts)



Camshaft with a 114 LSA works best (duration depends on where you want to make power, turbo size, compression, boost, etc)



More lift and duration on the exhaust side than intake.



You want to set your valvetrain up with about 20# stronger valve springs on the intake side.



Stock head gaskets will not work.. You will need a MLS type gasket. I recommend Cometic MLS gaskets. They are pricey though at $76 each. Std head gaskets will blow (been there, done that)



If your buying heads, I would not go too big of cc for a 327.. The one guy above me said 215cc.. No way in h*ll would I run that large of a head on a 327 even turbo'ed unless it will only be used in the 5500-8500 rpm range.



If your planning a street build then 180 to 190cc.. If more race than street 190 to 200cc.. Remember it's a 327 still..



Packaging a TT SB is a pain in the butt. You will have to cut up parts on your truck to make it all fit.



Stay away from most of the ebay turbos. Most on there for around $300 each are cheap off shore, bonded together units that will blow apart.



When I helped my dad build his TT327 1982 firebird we went the junkyard route. Picked up two garrett T3's from early 80's volvo cars for $55 each.



Go ahead and run an intercooler from the get go. We done his non intercooled to start with and he was limited to 5 psi boost on pump fuel before detonation started.



You will need the turbo headers/manifolds. We used ones sold on ebay by ssautochrome. There is bad talk about their headers on the net, but we has pretty good luck with them so far.



Remember ALL turbo headers will crack.. Not a case of if, but rather when.. Better ones just cracks later on.



You will need to drill 2 holes in your oil pan, and weld in two fittings for oil return from the turbos.



You will need to add a T at your oil pressure/light sending unit and run a metal oil feed line from that T to each turbo.



You didn't say if this will be a blown through carb set up, draw through carb set up, or EFI...



If it's blow through, you will need to boost ref your fuel pump.



If carb, you will need to mod it for blow through use.



You'll have to jet up pretty rich (if carb'ed)

You'll have to pull a lot of timing out. Good starting point would be 25* total and go up 1* at a time. My dad's is limited to 28* total.



Look over on www.turbomustang.com. On the message board. They even have a chevy part. Alot of good turbo info there.



Also search on www.nastyz28.com and www.thirdgen.org You will find a good bit of turbo info on those aswell.



As far as power.. Well twin T3's will give about 30 HP per pound of boost.. Twin T4's will give closer to 40 HP per pound..



Stock most of the OEM T3's will give about 8-10 psi boost with the factory internal wastegate.



So if you can get away with 10 psi on pump fuel with twin T3's your looking at 300 HP from the boost and your engine should be making in the 300-400 HP range so 600-700 HP at the crank



Thats 492 to 574 HP at the wheels



On a 327 I wouldnt recommend T4's though if its a street build.



My dad's is a 337 (327 +.060" over) twin T3's and his starts coming up on boost around 2800 rpm, and fully spooled up by about 3800 rpm..



If he had T4's the spool up would be later, probbly 1,000 to 1,400 rpm later.