Matt, please don't listen to the idiots.
This is a small block chevy, I assume with stock heads? Small blocks have always had problems on the exhaust side. Even more so with manifolds. Even BBC's can use help.
You can pickup over 25HP with headers, bone stock motor otherwise (should richen the carb up some at the same time).
What anyone who talks bad about headers knows, is nothing. PROPERLY SIZED (I think most all recommended for the street and stock ports are 1 5/8" primaries) headers will make more power and torque at EVERY RPM the engine runs at.
Properly sized headers are conducive to what is called "scavenging". Quick/not technical header rundown: Exhaust valve opens, piston pushes exhaust out. intake valve opens, exhaust valve still not closed (cam overlap) piston moving downward. Previous exhaust "pulse" is moving down the header primary. As it cools the exhaust volume decreases. This creates a "pulse", such that as the pulse moves towards the tail pipe, the suction created BEHIND the pulse (hence the name scavenging) helps pull fuel and air into the cylinder before the exhaust valve closes. When the exhaust valve closes, there is already fuel/air in the cylinder, but the piston has only just started pulling in fuel/air as the exhaust valve has closed. So in effect, you are adding more air and fuel to each intake stroke. Thus, you are getting more into the cylinder, which means more power.
With manifolds, the exhaust comes out of the exhaust port, and collides with the other three pulses that are already trying to make their way to the single outlet. This means no scavenging takes place, AND since the exhaust isn't moving on it's own, the engine now has to do MORE work to push the exhaust out, which costs power. THIS is why *long tube* headers are the best in any application that they will fit.
My recommendation is to not cheap out. Cheap headers rust, leak, and look bad very quickly. This is why many people dislike headers. Buy some decent headers like Hedman's Elite series, and you will not have those problems. Especially with their ball and socket flange.
Headers normally make it more of a pain to do certain jobs (starter replacement, spark plugs) but how often do you do that, vs. how often would you enjoy at least 25 more HP? I thought so.
Also, Hedman makes a pretty good variety of headers in Stainless Steel. If I planned on keeping the car more than 5 years, I would go that route. They are expensive, but you should never have to buy another set. Coated headers suck in my opinion, although if coated internally, they will help keep the engine bay cooler.
Couple headers with a better cam, better flowing heads (Vortecs for cheap) and a carb tuned properly, you will easily gain 100HP, and cost yourself nothing in driveability.
Edit: Baloney? Please find ANY writeup done by any reputable engine builder or magazine that shows LESS power on a small block with long tube headers vs. stock exhaust manifolds. Only an idiot would ignore the science behind headers, let alone the dyno tests that overwhelmingly prove it.